City of Smiles, 12 Years Later

The Balay Negrense.

Doing the unconventional and seeking the undiscovered is risky as much as it is exciting. When I travel, this is usually the way to go. As much as possible, I deviate from the usual and expected routes; touristy areas (I want to put emphasis on that) and strictly planned itineraries. This trip though is an exception. Three people from our group are first-timers in Bacolod city, two of them are expats and are also well-traveled. We thought that the best way for everyone to enjoy the trip is to immerse ourselves into adventures that people come to this place for.

Bacolod is not new to me personally. During my university years, which mark the best years of my student life, I use to visit the place every October for the Unigames to compete with other universities in the country that are part of the Unigames origanization. Yes, I use to play volleyball, but I haven't played in years just so you know ***Insert Sad Face! Silliman University where I graduated from is located in Dumaguete City, which is also an entrée to other beautiful tourist destinations as Siquijor, Apo Island, Oslob Whale Sharks, Manjuyod Sandbar, etc. Dumaguete is the capital of Negros Oriental, a province that occupies the southeastern half of the large island of Negros and borders Negros Occidental where Bacolod sits as its capital.

Truth be told, I have not really explored Bacolod in the four years that I have frequented the place. So I took this chance to not only satisfy the nostalgia, but experience again what Bacolod offered then and what it is now. 

San Sebastian Cathedral.

A FOODIE's PARADISE

Before the city became known as the City of Smiles and home to the famous MassKara festival, Bacolod cuisine has been existing, since time immemorial. It has evolved through the years, flavors concocted out of traditional and modern ways that every gastronome will surely salivate for. I am not a connoisseur, but I drool even to the thought of Chicken Inasal alone.

Many versions of Chicken Inasal, a charcoal grilled chicken, have cropped up not only in Bacolod itself, but in many other parts of the country as well. I must say though that, in my experience, the one I had here is yet to be surpassed. We went to Manokan country at lunchtime, just minutes after we landed. Our friend took us specifically to Aida's Chicken. Only a real expert can describe in perfect terms how delicious the chicken was. As for us, we didn't need any words, but two serves of this mouthwatering dish.

Aida's Chicken

Nenas Rose II, Father M. Ferrero St., 

Bacolod, 6100 Negros Occidental

Philippines

For some sinful indulgence, we headed to Calea Pastries & Coffee. This one exceeded my expectations. One would get nauseated choosing countless cake options the cafe offers, lining from one side to the opposite, on different levels. I did not find it difficult though because I always know what I want. And I knew I can never go wrong with anything that has ice cream. Take a look at this piece of heaven below.

Mine and theirs.

Calea Pastries & Coffee

15th st, Balay Quince,

Bacolod, 6100 Negros Occidental

Philippines

KBL is an Ilonggo staple that means Kadyos, Baboy, Langka (Pigeon Pea, Pork, and Jackfruit). It so special that the main ingredient, Kadyos, is rarely available elsewhere. This dish is also somehow part of my childhood because on Sundays, if my mum or dad wouldn't cook pochero, we would have KBL as an alternative to monggo (Mung Bean) with pork for lunch. Its taste is so distinct that I never had anything like this in Manila. Our KBL experience happened in Sandok Comfort Food in SM. 

Credits to Flavours of IloIlo blog for the photo. Click here!

Sandok Comfort Food

SM City Bacolod South Wing, 

San Juan St, 

Bacolod City 6100 Negros Occidental 

Philippines

After our bumpy boat ride from Lakawon Island back to Cadiz city, our tummies craved for really good food...huge servings of fresh, delectable seafood. But before satisfaction can be ours, we had to rinse ourselves first using the very little water resource at the port after getting soaked with seawater while on the boat. On our way to Bacolod, we dropped by at a seaside restaurant in Silay city quite known for its seafood dishes. Contrary to what other bloggers say, the price range at Melken's Seafood Restaurant is actually affordable compared to what we pay for in the metro. 

We had gambas, crab in coconut milk, stuffed squid with butter, fish (blue marlin) tinola, and pork liempo. And multiple servings of rice. This is proof that we achieved and satisfied our cravings for fresh, delectable seafood. And yes, by the sea, of course. 

Melken's Seafood Restaurant

Balaring - Bongol Rd Rd, 

Silay City 6116 Negros Occidental

 Philippines

We wouldn't call it a day without another session of coffee and desserts. So a few hours before our flight back to Manila, we continued deer-hunting for places that could satisfy our palates. We ended at 21 Restaurant as recommended by our friend who is a local. Unfortunately though, their dessert chef was on break so we had to settle for what's available. Instead of having their Strawberry Parfait or Banana Split, I had three scoops of Ube Ice Cream. I had a taste of their Batchoy too, which is to me the best that I have ever tasted in my entire life. Their Pandates, cake made of dates, are also sumptuous especially when served warm. 

I was too tired to get a photo so I got this one from Trip Advisor just so you can picture out what the place looks like. It looks a little fancy though old. The ceiling needs some retouching and their dessert chef, most importantly, must take his break strategically, not when we are around! LOL

21 Restaurant

21 Lacson St, 

Bacolod, 6100 Negros Occidental

Philippines

THE SUITES AT CALLE NUEVA

Compared to our Lakawon island accommodation, this is rather modest. But looks can be deceiving. The place appears tiny from the outside to the lobby, but when you get to the back, it is actually very spacious. The rooms are decent too, properly cleaned, with toilet and bath. San Sebastian Church, SM, Manokan Country, and a park are just a short walk away from the hotel. The staff is very nice too. Our accommodation includes breakfast. There aren't many options on the buffet, but fair enough for the price we paid.

The Suites at Calle Nueva

15 Corner Nueva corner Locsin Street

Bacolod City 6100 Negros Occidental

Philippines

THE LEDESMAS AND THE RUINS

This needs no introduction. Though not in Bacolod City, this tourist attraction is just located in the nearby town of Talisay, Negros Occidental. One would surely be amazed by the mansion's architecture, which is reminiscent of Italian designs. I myself could not help, but imagine how the place looks like during its glorious years---the banquets, meetings, and even the intimate moments. 

Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson had the mansion built in honor of her Portuguese wife, Maria Braga Lacson, who died during the birth of their eleventh child. No wonder they call it the Taj Mahal of the Philippines. Filipino guerillas during the second world war burned it down as a countermeasure to prevent the invading Japanese forces from using it as a military office. 

THE GASTONS AND BALAY NEGRENSE

Built in the late 1800s, this Bahay na Bato or "House of Stone" in English has weathered many storms through the years. This iconic edifice was originally the ancestral house of Victor Gaston whose father was credited as one of the pioneers of the sugarcane industry. Some time in the 70s, the house fell into dilapidation until a group of concerned Negrenses formed a foundation that would help restore and maintain the once grand house. The mansion was later donated to the Philippine Tourism Authority and now functions as a museum.

Balay Negrense is just one of the many perfectly preserved heritage houses in Silay, a city in close proximity to the provincial capital. All these houses as well as artists and cultural shows contribute to what the city is known for, "Paris of Negros." 

This house in Hacienda Rosalia is another property owned by the Gaston family. We did not get to visit this in the town of Manapla due to time constraints, but what draws me to this structure is it's relevance to Philippine pop culture. This served as the location to the cult classic of the Philippine cinema entitled Oro, Plata, Mata that depicted the lives of two haciendero families after the second world war. The film was directed by Peque Gallaga, an award-winning director. Photo credits to Vigattin Tourism!

ALL ABOUT THE NIGHT LIFE

Our goal was to chill, be truly the Titas that we are now so we wanted to avoid any kind of partying, but for the sake of experience, we gave it a go. With or without us, our friend, being the party animal that he is, would surely still go out and party, but we capped the night off early as we would travel to Lakawon island the day after.

During my Unigames years, which ended 12 years ago, my teammates and I were regulars at MO2 Restobar in Goldenfields. This club was in vogue that time. It was also during these years when I had my first female strip club experience. For this trip, we went to The Trapdoor Tasting Room and Portiko Café & Lounge. The former was full so after one drink, we moved to Portiko. The food was good and the place was awesome. It was pocket-friendly too.

Entrance to The Trapdoor Tasting Room. It can be a bit tricky especially if it's your first time. 

Once you open the first door, it will lead you to this quaint looking one. The eclectic interior is gorgeous and be prepared for a few surprises especially in the toilet. I have photos, but the experience is yours to unlock.

The crowd.

Credits to Yoorekka for this photo. This is Portiko Cafe & Lounge without the people. 

We hopped into another club called Ice Bar & Restaurant, but it wasn't I expected it to be. If I were to rank the three, Portiko would be the first because of the three elements that I consider when clubbing---music, drinks, and food. The Trapdoor is a designer or an artist's haven, but comfort-wise, I don't think I'm a fan. Not a fan of their butter beer either. It was a huge regret! LOL And the last in rank, I don't even want to talk about it.

The beach on Lakawon at low tide. 

LEAVING WITH A SMILE

Tired, but we bade farewell to the City of Smiles with smiles on our faces and probably, the five kilograms we've gained after the non-stop eating we did, since day one. Our adventures were no different from others. From the incomparable Chicken Inasal that sent our cravings flying to the sinful desserts at Calea Pastries & Coffee, to the heritage structures that gave us a glimpse of how grand was grand in the lives of hacienderos when the sugar industry was at its prime, to the risky island adventure that awakened our vagal desire for seafood, to the "pasalubongs" like Piaya, which is symbolic of the economic backbone of the province then and (still) now. And so on and so forth.

It was quick, but a handful of beautiful memories were created, ample enough to make up for the 12 years that passed, since my last visit. 12 or 24 years from now, everything may not be the same anymore, but the smiles the place will leave on our faces from every visit will always be certain.


XoXo,


Red Eye ;-)


Edits by Red Eye (Instagram)